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  羅尼·史密斯(Rodney Smith)Rodney Smith 1970年畢業(yè)于弗吉尼亞大學(xué),之后在1973年,他在耶魯大學(xué)取得了神學(xué)碩士學(xué)位。在耶魯時(shí),他師從Walker Evans研習(xí)攝影,之后,以紐約為大本營,他開始了商業(yè)攝影和攝影教學(xué)生涯,并獲得耶魯大學(xué)副教授的職位。

  在商業(yè)攝影方面,他服務(wù)過的大客戶不計(jì)其數(shù):其中有American Express、 I.B.M.、H.J Heinz、 Merrill Lynch、 the New York Stock Exchange、 B.M.W.、 Starbucks Coffee、VISA、 Ralph Lauren、 Ellen Tracy、 The New York Times雜志和W 雜志。 1975年,Rodney得到一筆獎(jiǎng)學(xué)金,這筆錢足以資助他在耶路撒冷呆3個(gè)月,耶路撒冷的三個(gè)月是充實(shí)的。之后,他把在這三個(gè)月內(nèi)拍的作品集結(jié)成冊(cè),在這本名為“光明之地”的畫冊(cè)里,充滿了白沙覆蓋的墻、臉龐瘦削,眼神迷離的男人和擁有棕色眼睛,掛著迷人微笑的婦女和小孩。這本作品集取得了空前的成功,甚至到今天,我們?cè)诤芏鄷r(shí)尚攝影作品里還可以找到些許Rodney似的風(fēng)格。

  如今,Rodney已是時(shí)尚攝影界中的翹楚,不過和同時(shí)代的攝影師不同的是,他的作品總是用黑白直指本源,古典的黑白調(diào)和擁有奇特神情和姿態(tài)的模特營造出一種截然不同的風(fēng)格,這有點(diǎn)像Helmut Newton,從一堆五顏六色的時(shí)尚作品里,你總是可以毫不費(fèi)勁一眼辨別出“Rodney風(fēng)格”的片子。他自己也說:“我想我能為時(shí)尚做的就是提供一種古典、懷舊同時(shí)又高貴和協(xié)調(diào)的感覺,找出入時(shí)的,并能持續(xù)許久的那種東西,而不是追求每一刻的變化。” 我們來看看這種所謂的“典型Rodney風(fēng)格”——一個(gè)典型英國紳士打扮的男人(英式貼身西服,紳士帽),置身于一望無際的田間,灰色天空劈出一道淡白的光,抑或同樣是這樣打扮的男人,不過場景轉(zhuǎn)換到城市露臺(tái)或者爬滿藤蔓的高墻。所有這些男人都背對(duì)觀眾,你看不到他們的表情,然而你似乎能夠從畫面中感受到他們的情緒,這樣的情緒甚至比他們直接面對(duì)你還來得強(qiáng)烈。而為數(shù)不多的幾個(gè)露面男人肖像表情也是出奇地木訥,好像被催眠一樣懵懂,這樣的表情加上大片留白的素色背景,好像真正地凝固了時(shí)間,給人無盡地想象空間。從這些畫面中我們可以看出Rodney在環(huán)境和主題之間的精妙協(xié)調(diào)。關(guān)于這樣的一種風(fēng)格是如何形成的,他給我們的解釋是:“我父親本來就是位和時(shí)尚行業(yè)有很多關(guān)系的商人,在時(shí)尚行業(yè)里,一切都是圍繞‘外表’運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)的,我就是在這樣一個(gè)處處在意東西看起來怎么樣的家庭環(huán)境中長大,這也在我心里種下了最初的審美種子,處處注重細(xì)節(jié),衣服的質(zhì)地細(xì)節(jié),建筑物的細(xì)節(jié),一切一切的細(xì)節(jié),對(duì)細(xì)節(jié)的苛求在日后影響到我對(duì)所謂時(shí)尚、比例、高貴和美的看法。”

年鑒


Rodney Smith Biography

  Rodney Smith graduated from the University of Virginia in 1970. He went on to earn a Master of Divinity in Theology from Yale University in 1973. While at Yale, Rodney also studied photography under Walker Evans. Mr. Smith is a photographer based in New York with years of teaching experience, including a adjunct professorship at Yale University. He regularly teaches a workshop at the Santa Fe Photographic Workshop in New Mexico.

  Along with his personal work, Mr. Smith has been commissioned to do assignment work for clients such as American Express, I.B.M., H.J Heinz, Merrill Lynch, the New York Stock Exchange, B.M.W., Starbucks Coffee, and House Beautiful Magazine, MCI Worldcom, VISA, and The New York City Ballet. In addition to this corporate and advertising work, his fashion include Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Ralph Lauren, Ellen Tracy, The New York Times Magazine and W Magazine.



In 1975 he received a Jerusalem Foundation Fellowship which enabled him to live in Jerusalem for three months. This work resulted in his first book, In the Land of Light, published by Houghton-Mifflin Company in 1983. His second book, entitled The Hat Book was published by Doubleday in the Fall of 1993. Currently, Mr. Smith is working on his third book. He lives with his wife and daughter in Snedens Landing, a small community on the Hudson near New York City.